Photo: Elysium Photography (elysiumphotography.inc)
Tourtière meat pies highlight New Hampshire’s French-Canadian heritage
CHEZ VACHON IN MANCHESTER MAY FIELD A DECENT NUMBER OF CALLS LOOKING FOR FANCY DINNER RESERVATIONS—but chef and owner Robert Perkins says the name belies what his no-frills breakfast and lunch spot is.
“We’re not a French restaurant, we’re French Canadian,” he says. What does that mean to him and his wife, Jessica? A menu filled with comfort foods like poutine, a global sensation that traces its roots to Québec—and other regional specialties of far less renown, like tourtière. The French-Canadian meat pie makes a seasonal appearance at Chez Vachon and other paper-napkin favorites like the Red Arrow Diner in Concord, Londonderry, and Nashua.
There’s no way the working-class staple wasn’t making its way into her cookbook, says New Hampshire–based food historian Kathleen Curtin. The Portsmouth history teacher, co-author of Giving Thanks: Thanksgiving Recipes and History, from Pilgrims to Pumpkin Pie, says a slice has always been a multicultural cross-section of the country’s humble, industrious origins.
“One of the strongest debates we have in our house is whether to eat tourtière with ketchup or gravy—and I gotta tell you, I’m a strong advocate for the ketchup.” —Chef Bobby Marcotte
“Irish and Italian immigrants have their own holiday traditions, of course, and so do French Canadians,” says Curtin. While New England wild turkeys at some point were likely featured as part of the filling, today’s versions are mostly pork and beef supplemented with potatoes. Herbs like sage and thyme are usually factored in, but every region’s traditions are different, says Curtin. “These pies are a bit of a celebratory nod to older types of Christmas pies that are part of lots of European traditions. The beauty of it is you can leave it out for a bit as people stop by and visit, so they’re greeted with something home-cooked and hearty.”
The savory filling in Thanksgiving pies may differ a bit from Advent pies, which typically also factor in fragrant cinnamon, allspice, and clove. As Acadian families blended in, says Curtin, so did their choice of proteins, flavors, and accoutrements. “Most people swear that theirs is the ‘authentic’ one. But when you think about how the Acadians go all the way down to New Orleans, you have these Creole and Cajun versions that include oysters, too. Because these are usually made and served around the holidays, all down the East Coast you have people who are passionate about their family’s traditions and versions.”
CHEZ VACHON
136 Kelley St., Manchester
Chezvachon.com
IN RAYMOND, NEW HAMPSHIRE, TUCKAWAY TAVERN & BUTCHERY executive chef Bobby Marcotte’s favorite recipe comes via his stepfather, who shared his own mother’s version. Marcotte has since made tweaks independently, including a version that’s not in a traditional round pie shape. Tuckaway can serve up hundreds with a sheet pan style that’s a bestseller in both fall and winter.
For home bakers and in his kitchen, Marcotte advocates for a croissant- style top crust. But the sky’s the limit when it comes to personal preferences that may just set off piping-hot dinner table talk, he says. “One of the strongest debates we have in our house is whether to eat tourtière with ketchup or gravy—and I gotta tell you, I’m a strong advocate for the ketchup.”
At Tuckaway tables, the debate continues. After an appearance on the Food Network, guests from as far as Maryland and Philadelphia often drive to Raymond for a chance to dig into seasonal specialties like Marcotte’s tourtière. Thankfully, takeaway slices travel as well as the stories of New Hampshire’s Acadian heritage that are served on the side.
TUCKAWAY TAVERN
58 Route 27, Raymond
Tuckaway.com
